Now we've been here a little while, Ben and i have noticed some things that are quite... unique. There are positives and negatives to everything in this life, so here are some first basic 'impressions' that we've had about Phnom Penh life so far....
Food: Ben's favourite subject, especially here. He's completely fallen in love with exotic scents and smells of street food; ducks roasting over hot coals, un-knowns fried in batter, mangoes covered in salt and chili, coconuts being opened on the side of the road... the list goes on. On our first day, we bought ourselves a box of 2min noodles to help us get through the first few nights. One evening, we passed a little shop bbq-ing skewers of juicy meat that smelt so delicious. Unable to ask what kind of meat it was, i made charades of different animals- chicken, pig, cow, hoping it wasn't dog- until we discovered it was beef. So we bought a few kebabs and took them home to have with our noodles. They were delicious. Total cost: $2.50. A few nights later, we stopped in at a place on our street corner called "BBQ and Soup" (well, that is what the english part says) and sat down to a korean-bbq-like meal. The menu all in Khmer, we just pointed at some pictures of plates and hoped they would be edible. They delivered us some raw meat and veg which we cooked on our own little hotplate. Aware of the incredible expense that a meal like this would cost in Australia (upwards of $40) and with only a $10 in our pockets, we resided that one of us would have to go back to the house to get some more money. When the bill came, we braced. Total cost: $4.50. Ben nearly cried. He's been begging to go back to 'BBQ and Soup' ever since.
*We do have to be careful though. Street food can be a breeding ground for gastro and tummy bugs. They key is to make sure all food is cooked right in front of you. Also, do not eat any 'square' ice, only the round ones, if at all. Square ice is carried openly on the backs of motos, dragged through markets and who knows where. We at least hope that round ice is made from bottled and not tap water...
Transport: It only costs $2-3 to go anywhere! The motodups and tuk tuk's will spot you as a foreigner from miles away to offer you their ride, and all prices are negotiable. If you speak a little Khmer, they are more willing to drop the price to even $1. These motos are so easy to get around on, particularly in well known areas, and can dart in and out of traffic. Best to bring your own helmet. On the other hand, it costs $2-3 to go everywhere! Each little trips add up, and there is no other alternative ie. cars. Sometimes you are spending $10 a day just to get around, which is quite a lot in a week. I can't imagine how we will move furniture when it comes time to move. Also, if you are not going to a major landmark like a market or temple, you have to describe the nearest thing, head in that general direction, then mumble some 'chveng' or 'sdam' (left and right) to actually get where you want to go. This can be quite tricky if you don't have a map or have only been in the city a few days and have no idea where you're going! Ben has secured himself a motodup who takes him to school and back each day, but whenever we go into town or out and about, i must try and describe where we live in a completely different language!
Hygiene: Most Khmer bathrooms consist of a toilet and a showerhead (sometimes even a sink!). Most, ours included, are also only cold water. The shower runs directly onto the toilet floor, and never drains well, so you almost always get wet feet when you want to go to the loo, wash your hands (using the shower head) or even look in the mirror! My long, blonde hair is struggling in this humid climate (and it's actually the cool, dry season at the moment -.-) so i must wash it daily. Call me posh but i like my creature comforts, and having a warm shower is one. So here, this involves boiling the kettle on a gas stove, mixing this hot water with cold into a bucket and kneeling on the bathroom floor to dip my head into said bucket. Now, i'm only 23 and reasonably flexible, but it is not the most comfortable way of getting clean. Luckily i've had lots of practice with 'bucket baths' in the past, but i cannot help but feel a connection to those of history who too were deprived of running hot water.
None of these things are new to me. I had to find my way around them years ago, and for Ben, it is not too dissimilar to India or Malaysia. But it is ever so fun and such a relief to re-explore the weird and wacky aspects of another culture and city... together.
Friday, 30 January 2015
Thursday, 29 January 2015
ជំរាបសួរ ... Chomreabsuor!
Hello world! After weeks of preparation (and 5 days of flights!) we finally made it to Phnom Penh, Cambodia! We have spent the last few days recovering, meeting people, exploring the area, finding what we need and getting our heads around the fact that we live here now!
We arrived midday on the 24th Jan, stumbling out of the plane to a humid airport where an hour saw us getting visas and baggage sorted. Our official visas allowed us to stand in a different line to the backpacking tourists, and we got through relatively quickly. We were met by Dan, the Principle of Logos International School, who helped us get SIM cards for our phones and drove us through the chaos that was traffic to our part time accommodation. Some lovely teachers and parents had left us a ‘welcome package’ full of basic necessities for our first night, such as soap, some pasta and UHT milk and cereal for the morning. We slept the rest of that day and had a traditional Khmer dinner with a lady downstairs that evening.
The flat we are currently in belongs to an ex-teacher who is back in the UK for a while. It has one bedroom with a mattress on the floor and a fan, a small living room with 2 rattan chairs, and a tiny kitchen that has a sink, a fridge and a stove and that is pretty much it! Apparently it’s a running joke that this said teacher was quite the bachelor haha! The bathroom in the bedroom is basically a toilet with a shower head just next to it that drains onto the floor, and the one in the kitchen in almost unusable because it has a washing machine crammed behind the door so it can’t really open properly! The whole flat is the middle of 3 that share the stairs and entrance, and is above 4 Khmer-style houses underneath. This building is behind another block of flats that is on the main road. It is quite confusing at first! We are completely surrounded by Khmer families and it does get very noisy at times, but the kids are gorgeous and love to say ‘hello!’ to us.
Our first full day, Ben and I took a tuk tuk to the ‘Lucky Supermarket’ a few blocks away and bought some essential food items. We then came back and went for an explore down our own street, and discovered a ‘psar’ (market). Remembering a little Khmer from many years ago, I managed to buy a basket, a tacky plastic woven mat (it’s beautiful) for our lounge floor AKA the ‘dinner table’, and even a bag of fresh vegetables for 50cents! Ben was very impressed. That evening we found our way to Logos International School for church, and afterwards were introduced to many teachers who were very welcoming. That evening we were up quite late to the sounds of Khmer karaoke blaring at an extraordinary decibel next door. Poor Ben started school the next day! He was off on the back of a ‘motodup’ (motorbike taxi) at 7am Monday morning, and who knows what he got up to at the school- he must have liked it, because he’s been back every day since! Yes I’m hilarious. So he’s been at school all this week from 7- 4.30pm, mostly sitting in on his classes with another teacher until he learns the ropes. He is very happy that he gets a free cooked lunch every day, sometimes Khmer, sometimes western food, making me jealous! He has taught 2 classes so far as I’m aware, for he needed my handheld blender (which I’d brought from Australia- I knew it would come in handy) to run a ‘pea’ experiment?! I don’t know. Scientists, huh!
I on the other hand have been running around town doing all sorts of things. Finding ‘the internet’ was interesting, I must have walked a mile to find a shop that sold a dongle for the computer, only to be turned away because I didn’t have my passport?! Didn’t think I’d need it to buy a USB, so I trudged home again, found it, and set off again. I was obviously successful the second time round because you are reading this now. I’ve also been looking around at different language schools, but have been mostly focused on finding us our own home, for this bare ‘bachelor pad’, whilst lovely, is only temporary. I’ve been through ads and classifieds trying to find the right one for us, and must have visited at least 4 different houses in 3 days. Many ‘barangs’ (westerners, foreigners) here now live in serviced apartments, but we didn’t like that idea. A traditional Khmer house is a ‘pteah lvang’, which is a 2-3 story ‘skinny house’, often one of a row of at least 4, that has lots of tiny stairs inside, small rooms and a nice open roof top.
It is quite rare to get a whole one with a budget like ours, which means sharing with another family, or 2! Many also open out onto noisy main roads and are quite dark inside, so we definitely have to consider these things. Logos is quite far from the centre of town, and with Ben commuting there every day, we’d like to find a quiet place closer to the school.
So that is what we’ve been up to. It’s been a busy week for the both of us, and neither of us have really had time to sit and think about where we are or what is actually going on around us. The world outside this little flat is crazy- it is noisy and busy and always moving, there is so much to take in! But after all, we have a few years to do that don’t we? ;)
Thursday, 22 January 2015
A Last Review
The night before Ben and I fly out of Australia, i'm looking back to my last memories of living in Cambodia myself. Here is us as a family with all our possessions leaving the country together for the last time.
Although it was only 2 years, living in Cambodia from 2003-2005 changed my life (it must have if we're so keen to go back!) but it was also a rocky ride. As an 11 year old, I was pulled out of year 7 in Perth and "dragged" from my friends to a country and culture that was thousands of miles and so different from my own. The next few years got better as i made new friends at HOPE International school and was welcomed into the expat community there. I enjoyed the freedom of the Khmer lifestyle and the cheap living. There, i could go off to the markets on my bike where i'd buy $1 DVDs, drink coca cola from a plastic bag and spend the afternoon at a local internet cafe. However, each year also came with it's pain, as missionary families would come and go, meaning a constant losing of friends and teachers whom i'd become close to and knew i would never see again. I also missed Australia a great deal and remembered simple things like McDonalds, kids going to the cinema, mobile phones and living 'normal' lives. Yet despite these 'hardships' faced by a young teen, something about that place stuck in my heart. For as much as i wanted to return to Australia (and just 6 weeks later we were off to Myanmar), something, SOMETHING, led to these tears of a 13 year old and her sisters on the plane that last evening as she said goodbye to her home, Cambodia.
That 'home' has been calling her back ever since... why? Could Phnom Penh be home once again? How much has it changed in 12 years? What will Ben think of it all? There are just 22hrs to find out...
Although it was only 2 years, living in Cambodia from 2003-2005 changed my life (it must have if we're so keen to go back!) but it was also a rocky ride. As an 11 year old, I was pulled out of year 7 in Perth and "dragged" from my friends to a country and culture that was thousands of miles and so different from my own. The next few years got better as i made new friends at HOPE International school and was welcomed into the expat community there. I enjoyed the freedom of the Khmer lifestyle and the cheap living. There, i could go off to the markets on my bike where i'd buy $1 DVDs, drink coca cola from a plastic bag and spend the afternoon at a local internet cafe. However, each year also came with it's pain, as missionary families would come and go, meaning a constant losing of friends and teachers whom i'd become close to and knew i would never see again. I also missed Australia a great deal and remembered simple things like McDonalds, kids going to the cinema, mobile phones and living 'normal' lives. Yet despite these 'hardships' faced by a young teen, something about that place stuck in my heart. For as much as i wanted to return to Australia (and just 6 weeks later we were off to Myanmar), something, SOMETHING, led to these tears of a 13 year old and her sisters on the plane that last evening as she said goodbye to her home, Cambodia.
That 'home' has been calling her back ever since... why? Could Phnom Penh be home once again? How much has it changed in 12 years? What will Ben think of it all? There are just 22hrs to find out...
Thursday, 8 January 2015
We Have a House!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone!
Ben and I are in the UK visiting family before our journey of a lifetime. Everyone is very excited about us moving and are already making sure we get an extra room in our house, where-ever that is, so that we can have lots of visitors! We'll be thrilled to have people come and stay. But first, we need a house, and amazingly we've got one! For a while at least. Ben has been in contact with an ex-teacher in Phnom Penh who, while he is in the UK, has so kindly let us rent his apartment for a month or two until we find our own place! It will be all fully furnished for us, with a complete kitchen, lounge, bedroom etc. Even a bicycle for Ben to ride to work! The rent is very affordable, in a great location near markets, a hospital and Ben's school. We are very blessed to have this space and time to settle in for a while before properly looking for our own home.
We have also been approved our initial visa application papers! We've been helped with these by the school, they are long term visas that will allow Ben to work and me to seek it. We will present these papers on arrival an have our passports officially visa-rized.
Ben would lastly like to report that he has transitioned from a provisional to a fully registered teacher! All his paperwork has been done so that he can maintain his Australian registration while overseas, and can go straight back to teaching in Australia when we do choose to return.
So although Ben and I are currently travelling the UK with family, we are constantly thinking of, praying for and preparing for the big move to Cambodia, with good news encouraging us even more that we have made the right decision!
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